Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide puts installed spray foam at $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot. Closed-cell, the usual choice for rim joists and basements here, runs $3.00 to $5.00. We measure the space and give you a written price.

It depends on what is sprayed. HomeGuide puts a whole house at $8,000 to $20,000 and Fixr at $10,000 to $30,000. Many homes do not need foam everywhere: rims and problem areas get foam, attics get blown-in, and the total comes down.

At HomeGuide's $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot, 1,500 square feet at an inch or two would land roughly between $2,250 and $7,500, with closed-cell and greater thickness at the top end. Your written estimate sets the real number.

Problems usually come from installation: foam over wet framing or roof leaks, the wrong foam for the space, or poor mixing. Inspectors also note it can hide the roof deck. Careful prep and a written record of what was installed address most concerns.

Ice dams form when heat from the house melts roof snow. Sealing attic bypasses and adding insulation cuts that heat, and good ventilation keeps the roof deck cold. Foam is one tool; the fix is the whole attic plan.

Yes, inside heated spaces. Unheated attics, crawl spaces and pole barns may need to be warmed or scheduled on milder days so the foam cures properly.

At about 2 inches or more, closed-cell foam acts as a vapor retarder. That is why it is used on rim joists and below-grade walls here.

We do not recommend it against cold concrete in this climate. Closed-cell is the safer choice there.

HomeGuide advises at least 24 hours. We give you the time for the product used.

It helps when it seals the bypasses that heat the roof. Ventilation and attic depth matter too, and we look at all three.

In most homes here, yes. It is one of the cheapest ways to cut drafts and warm the first floor.

It still helps, but closed-cell foam on exposed walls may need an ignition or thermal barrier depending on use. We explain the options.

Only the perimeter. We need a few feet of clear space along the walls.

Its rebate chart lists $50 for insulating all accessible rim joist areas, with lower amounts for electric-only customers. Check the current chart.

Only if the air leaks are sealed and the roof is vented. Insulation without sealing often leaves the problem.

Michigan's updated code sets R-60 for new ceilings in zone 5; ENERGY STAR recommends R-49 to R-60 for existing homes depending on what is there now.

That is warm, moist air leaking into a cold attic. Sealing the bypasses is the fix.

Its chart lists $125 to $200 for at least 500 square feet of attic, depending on final R-value and your service type. Check the current chart.

One to two inches stops condensation on many buildings; heated shops usually get more. We match it to your use.

Yes, if the building and surfaces are warmed enough for the foam to cure properly.

Large items can stay if moved away from the walls and covered.

Yes. The roof is where most heat escapes and most drip happens.

With loose fill it usually means well over a foot and a half, depending on the material. The quote lists depth and R-value.

Loose cellulose settles some, which is why we blow to a settled depth. Dense-packed walls are packed tight to limit settling.

Yes, by removing a course of siding or drilling and plugging, depending on the siding.

Consumers Energy's chart lists $125 for at least 500 square feet of above-grade wall for gas or combined customers. Check the current chart.

No. Wet insulation should come out and the leak should be fixed first.

It looks like small, shiny gray-brown pebbles. Do not disturb it; have it tested.

Most attics are cleared in a day.

We remove soiled insulation. For active infestations, have the animals handled first.